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A section of experts advice on radiators' maintenance and good practices to be applied.
- Rinsing and reparation
The radiator have to be removed from the car then cleaned with powerful water jet inside and outside .after that we check to be sure the radiator his water tight by pressure testing and visually checked and repair if necessary
- Cleaning and reparation
Here again we remove the radiator from the car and the exterior is cleaned by putting the radiator in a tank of special cleaning solution and then rinsed after that we check to be sure the radiator his water tight by pressure testing and visually checked and repair if necessary
- Scrubbing and cleaning
the radiator is removed from the car rinsed in the solution to clean the exterior then it pressure tested to be sure it watertight. Then checked visually, and repaired if needed. We then remove one off the tank and we remove one tube and insert a scrubber in the tube and clean the inside to be sure there no foreign material when all his done we put it back on the car and recheck for pressure leak.
- Rebuilding a radiator
With this procedure web ring back to the closes to a brand new radiator we replace broken or defective part with new one or used one if hard to find new part and we always use new seal
- Replacement of the plastic reservoir tank and seal
Here the radiator his removed from the car and put in a special tool to disassemble it and remove any broken part. The defective part are replaced by new or rebuilt component then the radiator his reassembled and tested to be sure it 100% working.
The cooling system of a car his made to protect your engine from the negative effect off heat .If the system is not in good shape , the traffic jam could cause the car to overheat even if the temperature outside his under the freezing point.
If you ever see the temperature needle in the car rise to an alarming level here and you are in traffic here a couple off tip to prevent engine overheat.
Raise the idle just a bit this will aid the engine to take out more heat out of the system
Turn the defrost on and on max setting this will help to remove some heat from the cooling system since inside the car there a small radiator.
Park yourself in a secure zone and turn the engine off this will let the engine cool down you can even open the hood.
Finally bring your car to a specialist in cooling system .they have the expertise the find the real problem faster than a regular shop since they deal all the time with cooling system they are the expert and will find if it a leak broken fan or even obstructed radiator fin.
Although most current vehicles utilize aluminum radiators, here's a look at some of the most common failures of the older style copper/brass radiators
SEAM LEAK: This is a solder joint failure between the tank and the header. It can be caused by a poor solder joint at the seam, corrosion or a stress crack. If the rest of the radiator is in good condition and not limed up too badly inside this type of leak can be repaired by removing the tank, cleaning up the header and tank and reassembling the radiator.
INLET/OUTLET LEAK: This is a solder joint failure at the hose connection. The cause of this type of failure could be a poorly soldered joint, radiator hose vibration or cracking due to excessive stress or pressure on the connection. It is easily repaired by first checking the affected area for cracks, if no cracking is found thoroughly clean and resolder the connection.
TUBE RESTRICTION: Lime or calcium build up on the ends of the tubes can restrict coolant flow through the radiator core and will lead to overheating or a possible boil over situation. Solder bloom is a chemical reaction between the solder, brass header and anti-freeze. This white growth will eventually plug the ends of the tubes. Proper cooling system maintenance, including flushing the cooling system and refilling with the correct mix of quality anti-freeze and distilled water will prevent most of this from happening.
CRACKED TANK: This is plastic rad tank failure caused by plastic fatigue. The condition is due to constant heating and cooling which will eventually cause the plastic to become brittle and crack under pressure. In some cases the plastic rad tank can be replaced. If a new tank is not available, a new complete radiator is recommended.
RAD CORE DAMAGE: This can be caused from a fan blade striking the core, a stone hitting the rad, something rubbing against the core or a foreign object contacting the rad. If the damage is not too severe, this is a fairly simple repair providing the rest of the radiator is in good condition.
TUBE LEAKS: This could be a leak between the tube and the header, or possibly a corroded tube at the header. If your core is aluminum, this type of leak would require a rad replacement. If your rad core is copper/brass, it can be repaired providing the rest of the radiator is in good condition.
FIN DETERIORATION: This condition is common with rads that are 4 to 5 years old and are exposed to road salt during winter weather driving. The salt will eventually deteriorate the fin material and severely weaken the rad core. The area most affected would be the lower half of the rad as it is most vulnerable to the splash of slush and water that is mixed with road salt. To repair this damage would require either recoring the rad or replacing it with a new complete rad.
PLUGGED RAD CORE: This is another example of a plugged rad core. This restriction has been caused by the over use of a radiator 'stop leak' additive. You can see the sealer has actually collected in the lower section of the tank, blocking off those tubes and not circulating as it was designed to do. Most stop leak products only provide a temporary fix and rarely result in a long lasting permanent repair. A new complete rad in this case would make the most sense.
LOOSE SIDE STRAP: This is a common problem on down flow type rads. It is caused by a poor solder joint or excessive twisting of the rad support causing the solder joint to break. To repair this we simply clean the strap and the tank, secure the bracket into place and resolder the strap to tank connection.
PLASTIC TANK FAILURE: This is another common problem on today's modern rads. High coolant temperatures eventually break down the plastic causing it to crack, or in some cases break the connection completely off the rad. If the cooling system loses too much coolant, the resulting super-heated steam will actually melt or erode a hole right through the plastic tank and this can quite possibly end up causing severe engine damage.
The heat that and engine produce could destroy it .but the cooling system stop that from happening by keeping the engine in it operating temperature. This is why we need to do preventive maintenance since it essential for the good health off the engine.
The program will help find those elements:
Verification of the radiator cap to be sure it operate at the correct pressure
Verification of the thermostat to be sure it opens and closes at the correct range
Verification under pressure to find any leak to the outside of the cooling system from the water pump, the hose, the radiator, the heater core and the inside off the engine.
Verification of the inside off the engine where coolant and heat are exchanged to be sure no exhausts gas come into the cooling system and melts some component
Visual Verification of all the component belt hose and the complete system
Washing under pressure and filling back of the cooling system with the correct antifreeze and water mix by the recommended by the manufacturer.
Verification of the main fan
By doing the routine maintenance on the cooling system by your specialist this help you by foreseeing any problem before it happened thus no urgent repair and no down time so in return it saving you time and money.
Did you know that next to flat tires, cooling system failure is the primary cause for roadside breakdowns? You can prevent that by looking after your car's cooling system.
Please take the time to review the information below about your car's cooling system. Remember, keeping your vehicle cooling system operating at its maximum cooling capacity will not only help prevent a roadside breakdown, but it will also help extend the life of your engine.
If you have any questions about the information, please feel free to call us and talk to one of our cooling system professionals. We are here to be sure you “keep your cool!”
1. Cooling System Operation
The main purpose of the cooling system is to absorb excess heat generated by the engine, cool the transmission fluid on automatic transmissions and, on certain applications cool the engine oil as well.
The heat generated by internal combustion within an engine compartment can easily exceed 2000o F/1093o C. During this process, 33% of this heat is used to generate the mechanical energy required to run the engine. Another 33% is lost heat going out of the exhaust system and the last portion is the heat absorbed by the surrounding steel and aluminum of the engine. The temperature that is absorbed by the surrounding steel and aluminum can reach 700o F/371o C which can seriously damage the engine if not properly maintained.
Keep in mind that an engine that runs too cold is as bad as an engine that overheats. An overheating engine can produce temperatures around the combustion chamber (cylinder head) high enough to destroy cylinder heads and gaskets. A cold running engine, caused by a defective thermostat that is stuck open, will prevent the removal of condensation forming in the engine that can oxidize and create sludge build up in the oil pan.
Engine oil is also affected by the cooling system. To properly lubricate the internal engine components, the oil needs to reach an approximate temperature of 190o F; otherwise increased engine wear will occur. Automatic transmission fluid also needs to be cooled in order to maintain the right temperature and avoid damage to gears and other internal components.
2. Proper Repair and Maintenance for cooling systems
Many reasons cause a radiator to fail. Finding the real cause will surely reduce repeat failures. Here are a few steps that will help prevent future comebacks.
When replacing a radiator:
1- Always ask yourself what caused the radiator to fail. Check all possible causes for the radiator deterioration.
2- Inspect radiator cap with tester. The radiator cap increases the boiling point of the coolant and ensures a constant level of coolant in the radiator.
3- Thoroughly flush the entire system. Including the heater core and overflow container. Any residue in the system may contaminate the new coolant and cause premature failure.
4- Install a new thermostat. Keeping the temperature right is what it's all about… install the right temperature range thermostat.
5- Inspect hoses and install new clamps.
6- Install 50/50 mix of antifreeze. And clean water (distilled water is recommended if water treatment in the region shows high signs of by-products). This mix will provide protection against boiling and freezing temperatures while providing maximum corrosion protection.
7- Once the work is completed, run the engine. Long enough for the electric cooling fans to turn on or inspect the mechanical thermal clutch fan for proper engagement.
8-Cooling fans are crucial for proper system operation and preventing cooling problems at low speeds. For electric cooling fans, see manufacturer specification in the shop manual as most vehicles use the on-board computer via the engine coolant temperature sensor to turn on the fans.
9- Check all drive belts. Specially the one that runs the water pump is tight and in good condition.
3. Cooling System Flush and Fill
When was the last time your cooling system was flushed and refilled with fresh coolant? 2 years? 5 years? 10 years? Not sure, well this is what most vehicle manufacturer's recommend.
GREEN ANTI-FREEZE every 2 years or 80,000 km
ORANGE DEX-COOL LONG LIFE ANTI-FREEZE every 5 years or 240,000 km
GREEN HEAVY DUTY SUPER DIESEL every 5 years or 80,000 km
Texts sources: NARSA